Imitation, is it really the highest form of flattery.

Today, its easier to buy a fake/ copy of a high end brand than its ever been. Gone are the days of having to source from a tourist merchant and ordering off an illegal website with the risk of your items being held in customs.  Whilst shopping on The high street as well as browsing fast fashion websites it was very clear to me just how east and accessible it is to walk into a store and walk out with a rip off of the designer bag we all want, but can’t all afford.

Blow are two images showing two ‘different’ bags. One bag is Louis Vuitton, another bag is from fast fashion website Miss Guided. Its very clear Miss Guided have taken inspiration (ripped off) the Louis Vuitton print. Cheap alternative materials and methods of production will have been used to create the Miss Guided bag. If you buy a bag for £25 and it breaks the odds are you’ll bin it or buy a new one. If you buy a bag for £1,360.00 lets be honest you probably wouldn’t bin it. You’d see it as an investment.

If we can get something for less, then its in our nature to do so but are our instinct and nature causing us to be less sustainable? whilst its claimed imitation is the highest form of flattery its resulting in designers, artists and creators to be ripped off. Lets be honest, Louis Vuitton or Miss Guided probably won’t care about this and I doubt it will cost them millions but what about the small, new, emerging designers who struggle because fast fashion brands are making it easier than ever to get a similar product at a much cheaper cost.

Screen Shot 2018-11-20 at 12.23.24.pngScreen Shot 2018-11-20 at 12.23.03.png

Diet Prada: the Instagram account that airs the fashion industry’s dirty laundry

Diet Prada’s methods are simple. Photographs of new designs are juxtaposed with images of older, all-too-similar work, people are exposed for trying to ‘rip off’ and imitate garments and accessories by high end brands/ designers.

The instagram pages shows brands that have already made it big are trying to ‘rip off’ each other. However, they’ve not copied a large amount of detail… maybe just the colour scheme and presentation. Screen Shot 2018-11-20 at 12.27.11.png

YSL showroom vs Celine show room.

 

Screen Shot 2018-11-20 at 12.27.42.png

The page also gives people the change to comment and express their opinions. What may be classed as a rip off/ copy may just be seen as inspiration/ a trend.

In this post i’ve looked at high end brands which in my opinion have similar, if not the same levels of status on the catwalk and within the industry. To further my research I will compare a high end brand to a fast fashion website.

Fashion vs Fashion, Outsourcing.

There are different levels of production in fashion, from mass production, to batch production to a one off bespoke couture piece.

High fashion brands such as Burberry, Louis Vuitton, Gucci and Prada don’t like to be associated with the likes of Primark as the brands take pride in investment buys rather than fast fashion; ateliers not low paid workers in the developing world.

I feel as though any negative press i’ve seen online or in newspapers regarding working conditions always routes back to Primark, H&M and to my surprise Topshop and Asos, two brands I shop from. But i’ve always wanted to know if the luxury brands do outsource from the developing countries.

Whilst interning at a luxury brand which showcased at London Fashion Week 2017 I gained an insight into how much in house work went into the garments. All the fabric was sources from fabric stores in London, the garments were designed and constructed all in house and there was a specialist embroidery team who did most of the embroidery in house. The only outsourcing done was in India where some of the designers would also go and help work there.

Although there was some outsourcing it was done it was carried out in legal. fair working conditions. However, in Tansy Hopkins book Stitched up she brings out a fact which makes me question other high end brands. Its almost as if she brings out the falsity of that opinion through the licensing of names and the outsourcing of production. It became apparent that Karl Largerfeld’s Chanel makes 55% of its money from cosmetics and perfume and Ralph Lauren, Armain and Hugo Boss all manufacture in Bangladesh.

Capitalism

Definition

An economic and political system in which a country’s trade and industry are controlled by private owners for profit, rather than by the state.

During my sustainability and identity lecture capitalism was spoke about and became topic of conversation in many seminars. I have researched further into capitalisms association with fashion and the fashion industry.

The fashion industry It is worth $1.5tn a year. It is one of the most globalised trades of them all, and has been since at least the British empire. It is also one of the very few businesses allowed to present itself as not being wholly about commerce.

Fashion is among the most hyper-capitalist businesses of the many industries as it produces goods for short-term use with the aim of them to be updated or thrown out every six months. The industry is also sourced from all over the world which faces the issue of cross overs and different laws, regulations and working standards from different countries.

(it is estimated that one in three textile workers in Cambodia are medically underweight) or death, as in the perennial textile factory deaths of the Indian subcontinent.

Global Population Growth

Definition

An increase in the number of people that reside in a country, state, county, or city. To determine whether there has been population growth, the following formula is used: (birth rate + immigration) – (death rate + emigration).

It is not the number of people on the planet that is the issue – but the number of consumers and the scale and nature of their consumption. We are consuming at a rate which the planet can’t support because we are buying more than we need. Clothing has never been as affordable and as accessible as it is today with some websites such as ASOS doing same day delivery.

With fast fashion websites has it become accessible to keep up with the latest trends at a very low price but has this had an impact on our planet? Is it financially more beneficial to buy a new garment rather than get a broken one repaired?

Sustainability Lecture.

Definition: Sustainability

  • Meeting the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs.

Bruntland Report

World Commission on Environment and Development, 1987

  • Sustainable design is a new and uncomfortable space for many designers to occupy, indoctrinated as we are with the importance of differentiation and exclusivity.

From Valerie Casey, (Executive Creative Director, frog design), The Designer’s Dilemma

Screen Shot 2018-11-13 at 14.28.27

During the lecture the supply and demand slide caught my attention. Diagrams which showed a continuous circle with no end were imediatly identified as a problem/ issue to me.

We have a responsibility to consider that “cheap fashion” comes at a cost far and beyond what we pay at the tills.  We can only blame the retailers in so far as they’ve managed to lull us into a false sense of security and assurance that we can have dirt-cheap, lightning speed and guilt-free fashions.  If the person who made our next shirt did so without being able to feed their family that evening what does that say about us?’

Matilda Lee, Eco Chic, page 16

This statement shows and supports the issue of cheap fast fashion garments. Buying and wearing the latest trends has become so accessible and affordable because online and high street brands have to resources and technology to make cheap copies of of catwalk, designer couture pieces.

This made me think about my consumption level. I’m currently a student so I’m always watching how much I spend (most of the time) and because money as an issue I’ll hold my hands up and admit I’ve brought off fast fashion websites such as Pretty Little Things and Miss Guided. However, I do buy expensive luxury items especially shoes, accessories and jewellery from Harvey Nichols and Selfridges. If money wasn’t an issue and I had a stable income I’d buy one off pieces which I could wear every year, rather than buying a pair of leggings I’ll just bin when they get a hole in them.

 

Stacey Dooley Investigates, Fashions Dirty Secrets.

Stacey Dooley travels the world to uncover the hidden costs of the addiction to fast fashion. She sees for herself how toxic chemicals released by the garment industry pollute waterways that millions of people rely on. She witnesses the former Aral Sea, once one of the largest bodies of fresh water, now reduced almost entirely to dust.

First shown: 9pm 8 Oct 2018

I’m ashamed to admit I love having the latest fashion trends. Sometimes I don’t even enjoy shopping anymore, living in a city means I have my favourite shops such as Zara, French Connection, All Saints and Topshop on my door step. Going away for a weekend shopping trip is no longer the luxurious trip I use to look forwards to. I blame this on fast fashion and the amount of new trends per season, I often find my self in Zara once a week looking at new trends and new products available. This is a problem. Since studying textiles since the age of 15 where I picked it as a GCSE option to now, my second year studying fashion design I’ve always heard sustainability being mentioned. Its came to my attention how I’ve started to hear the word word more frequently within the past 5 years. It’s scary and its worrying.

I decided to research further into this, whilst making and designing, doing something I love, I don’t want to be killing something I need. For me, it was important I made the efforts to further educate myself.

BBC showed a documentary by Stacey Dooley who decided to investigate into the dirty secrets behind the production of all our clothing.

Stacey starts the documentary on the streets of Glasgow asking shoppers about their purchases questioning them about the amount of water they think has been used in the process of the textiles manufacturing behind the garment. A staggering amount of water is used and wasted within the manufacturing process, especially in cotton which completely surprised me. Every single person Stacey interview were shocked by the results, the results even reduced one woman to tears.

Screen Shot 2018-10-23 at 16.39.10.png

Aproximatley three years worth of drinking water for one t-shirt! That’s a lot of water which is 2,700 litres to be exact. The fashion industry is a massive consumer and polluter of our fresh water. And one of the biggest culprits is cotton. Despite only occupying 2.4% of the world’s cropland, cotton accounts for 24% of the world’s insecticide use and 11% of pesticides. Toxic chemicals washing into waterways and entering the ecosystems, is becoming a major source of pollution, especially in developing countries. Stacey mentioned many facts and statistics throughout the documentary which really hit me.  She told us the garment industry is the second worst polluter in the world falling just under the coal and oil industry.

British journalist and writer Lucy Siegle who focuses on environmental issues agrees to do an interview with Stacey.

Lucy has been researching fashions growing environmental foot print for a few years.

“Garment apparel is one of the top 5 polluters in the world, its not sustainable and its on borrowed time” says Lucy. Because were producing 100 billion new garments from new fibres every year and the planet cant sustain that.Cotton is incredibly impeccable, it uses more water than any fibre, it also has a lot more pesticides than most fibres which damages the land and soil it grows on,

“Its one of the biggest environmental catastrophes we see today on the planet”.

 

During the documentary Stacey visits the Aral Sea.The Aral Sea was once the world’s fourth largest lake, home to 24 species of fish and surrounded by fishing communities, lush forests and wetlands. While the lake was salt water, the rivers that fed it were fresh water. In the 1950’s the Soviet Union began using the rivers to irrigate the surrounding agricultural area, a process that has been continued to this day by Uzbekistan’s brutal dictator Islam Karimov.

The exposure of the bottom of the lake has released salts and pesticides into the atmosphere poisoning both farm land and people alike. Carcinogenic dust is blown into villages causing throat cancers and respiratory diseases.

Cotton production has a massive impact on the climate and environment causing the
seabed to turn into sand and form land. The damage doesn’t stop there, the climate can no longer support the eco system resulting in drastic changes in the weather.

Screen Shot 2018-10-29 at 22.41.32.png

Above are satellite images taken between 1990 and 2010. Its heartbreaking that without any explanation the damage and change is visible. The first images shows the sea in 1990, this photograph is customarily used to see how much water has been lost. As the years progress the accelerating drop of the sea is evident. In 2000 the Aral Sea splits into North and South, not only has it lost most of its water, the fishing is also nearly gone.

As a result of the large sea loss the fishing industry was wiped out which ended 10,000 of jobs and caused problems with food and drinking supplies. The disappearing of the sea  has also affected the health of the locals, people suffered, a lot of diseases, such as Tuberculosis, strokes, blood pressure and cancer because of the low quality of life.

From watching the documentary its clear to me one of the main reasons for this environmental catastrophe is fast fashion, not only the production system its self but the possessive obsession we have towards it. I’ve decided to look into fast fashion and consumerism to further develop my research and knowledge on sustainability.

The Journey Begins

Hi!
My name is Alarna Barry, I’m currently studying Fashion Design at Leeds Arts University. This blog will be a documentation of my journey and development throughout my context of practice module.

Themes for this modules lectures are

  • Popular Culture, Fashion and Textiles
  • Hand and Machine, Craft and the Artistan
  • Sustainability
  • Identity
  • Feminism and the Gaze
  • Subculture
  • Taste, Value and Consumption

From the lectures I will be further researching the topics and themes I find interesting to create a 2500 word essay and an accessory.